The Calm Before the Crush

BY VINCE VIDRINE

It has been a particularly calm and beautiful morning. The sun's rays are slowly peeking over the steep hills to warm the cold riverside air. The clear sky and still air seem to promise a warm, lovely day. It is quiet, and a peaceful energy moves through all of the living and non-living things in the vineyard. I can’t think of a better day to start harvest.

Our Viognier berries are just at the moment of transition between a gentle shade of green and a light, warm gold. They are soft but firm to the touch, and the seeds have just started to turn brown. When squeezed, the juice tastes incredible, with vivid acids and fresh, ripe tannins, and flavors that range from ripe lemon and lime to just-picked white peach and honeysuckle.

As we load the press for the first time this season, and as an exquisite September breeze begins to pick up, I feel calm and assured. We will harvest Viognier, then Marsanne, a little Grenache for rosé, then Roussanne, Syrah, and finally the rest of the Grenache and Mourvèdre. As usual, it will be a steadily metered pace, allowing us to focus on each variety in detail, and to strive for the very best with each bin of fruit, fermenter, and barrel.

We look forward to all that harvest will bring, and to the opportunity to share it with everyone who is curious.